Out of Stock? We've received a lot of emails asking about out of stock items, and sad to say, but CI is downsizing to a much smaller product offering. All of our guides, schematics and blog entries will stay available forever. Our new project is VMeter--a USB MIDI Controller Touch Strip & Display.
Select a Soldering Iron
A 25 or 30 Watt iron should suffice for most small electronics work.
Most soldering "guns" are vastly overpowered for electronics soldering and can easily overheat components or expose them to harmful voltages. However, some people cleverly use them to solder multiple leads on surface mount devices. Soldering "guns" are for plumbing and much heavier duty applications, and are usually over 100 Watts. The "guns" work by passing high currents through the tips, and these currents can generate voltages that damage electronic components. Also, magnetic fields from guns with transformers can damage some electronics.By forming the heating element in the shape of of the chip, a soldering gun can be used to heat many leads simultaneously.
A loose analogy: Imagine a car tire has a leak, but you’re trying to keep it inflated by pumping air into the tire at the same time it's escaping out the leak. The bigger the leak, the more air you have to pump into it to keep the pressure up. If the tire pressure represents tip temperature and the air lost through the leak represents heat lost through the tip, then wattage represents the maximum amount of air your pump could supply. Once more air escapes through the leak than your pump can replace, the tire pressure (or tip temperature) starts to drop.
If you had a very small leak and a huge pump (say a 100 Watt iron equivalent), you might be afraid that the pump would cause the tire to explode since so much more air is going in and so little going out. But if you have a nozzle to regulate the pump's air, you could only allow just the right amount of air in to replace what's lost through the leak. This is how "temperature controlled" soldering irons work. As long as you aren't losing more heat out of the tip than the iron can replace (up to its rated wattage), it will automatically regulate just the right amount of heat into the tip to maintain the same temperature.
However, typical plug-in irons have no such regulation. A 15 Watt iron always delivers 15 Watts of heat to the tip, and the tip temperature stops increasing only when 15 Watts of heat escape through the air. When the tip touches a part, its temperature drops, and if the part you're soldering can dissipate enough heat, the temperature will keep dropping until it won't melt solder any more. After the iron is pulled away from the joint, the temperature will climb again. There is some amount of natural regulation: as the tip gets hotter, it dissipates more heat, and as it gets cooler, it dissipates less.
Usually, the bigger the component the more heat it can absorb and dissipate, so the general rule is that you need more wattage for larger parts. If you're just soldering small resistors and ICs, 15 Watts will probably suffice, but you may have to wait a bit in between joints for the tip to recover. If you're soldering larger components, especially ones with heat sinks (like voltage regulators), or doing a lot of soldering, you'll probably want a 25 or 30 Watt iron. For soldering larger things like 10 gauge copper wire, motor casings, or large heat sinks, you may need upwards of a 50 Watt iron or more. The following video shows what happens to tip temperature as 15, 25, and 40 Watt irons solder various sizes of wires and components. For cheap irons, higher wattage does indeed mean higher temperatures!
What Watts, What? A short article about how much wattage is needed. From the article: "Power doesn't do it. Temperature control does. All you need is enough power to keep the tip hot. Anything more than that is a waste."